During my food travels over the last couple of years since Covid, I’ve sensed a trend among higher-end, polished-casual restaurants toward luxurious offerings…e.g. FOIE GRAS and CAVIAR. I don’t know if they’re capitalizing on “revenge spending” by customers who are making up for lost after the COVID-related dining and travel shutdown. Maybe it’s what happens when the Dow reaches 40,000.
Whatever. It’s out there now and happening across the United States as well as Europe.
Caviar and foie gras have never held a particularly high visibility on my radar screen. I guess I thought they were a little hoity-toity for us – more the province of “tweezer” restaurants in the major metropolitan markets of Paris, New York, Moscow and the like.
History tells us that human consumption of fish eggs began as far back as 2,500 – 3,000 years ago, when our ancestors began catching the pre-historic looking sturgeon that swam the waters of the Caspian and Black Seas. Earliest records indicate that the name “caviar” came from the Persian word, “khav-yar.”
Russia is most often associated with caviar since it shares a border with both sturgeon-populated seas, and also since Russians have a love for VODKA…and lots of it.
But around 1500, caviar started to penetrate European society – particularly Parisian high society – as a luxurious treat for royals (who preferred to pair it with Champagne rather than some potato-based swill).
A word or two about caviar…
First, while all fish eggs are called ROE, only the eggs from sturgeon can be called CAVIAR.
Second, it ain’t cheap and can be hard to find. That’s because the population of sturgeon has declined dramatically due to over-fishing and habitat destruction.
Third, always serve it at room temperature. And don’t eat caviar with a metal spoon. Plastic or Mother of Pearl is best.
It’s also worth noting that caviar is seldom cooked.
Today, China has become the world’s preeminent source of caviar – producing 40 tons annually.
Worldwide, there is a sort of hierarchy to the prevalent types of caviar.
- BELUGA STURGEON is, by far, the biggest member of the sturgeon family at over 1500 pounds. The eggs are rich and buttery, and it has a very nuanced, mild fish flavor that tastes of MONEY. It’s frequently sold in exquisite packaging as if it were a gold, diamond-bezeled Rolex. A pound can cost more than a car. Beluga is not sold in the United States at this time due to the reasons cited above.
- The SEVRUGA is next in weight and has the most robust-tasting eggs – saltier and brinier than Beluga. It costs about $150/ounce.
- OSETRA STURGEON CAVIAR comes from the smallest fish, which typically weigh between 50-90 pounds. The eggs – nutty, creamy and firm – pop in your mouth. Expect to pay about $100/ounce.
While sturgeon roe has traditionally been marketed to the One Percent, certain kinds of caviar have recently become more affordable. Among them are WHITE STURGEON CAVIAR, which is farmed in northern California, and WILD WHITE STURGEON, which still swim in the Sacramento River.
And from the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers, as well as Wisconsin lakes, there’s caviar produced by SHOVELNOSE STURGEON and PADDLEFISH. The shovelnose gives us HACKLEBACK CAVIAR, which is slightly sweet, mild, buttery and nutty…and quite good. Paddlefish, on the other hand, produce eggs that look exactly like caviar eggs, but as they’re not actually sturgeon, the roe cannot be classified as caviar. Still, it’s tasty, with an herbal, earthy quality. I’d say that paddlefish roe would be ideal for large parties on a buffet table.
Finally, there are salmon eggs, which for some reason can be legally called “salmon caviar.” I like ‘em. They’re a little saltier than sturgeon eggs (not to mention a whole lot cheaper). When paired with tiny blini Russian pancakes and a dollop of tangy crème fraiche, I have to wonder: Would a $ 100 portion of OSETRA make me that much happier than a $15 serving of SALMON CAVIAR ?
Maybe if someone else picked up the tab.
Oh, I should also mention IKURA JAPANESE SALMON CAVIAR, which is highly prized in Japan due to its rich umami flavor.
So, what’s the best way to enjoy caviar? It’s found in a wide variety of dishes, some definitely better than others. Typically, chefs just throw a spoonful of caviar on top of something simply to elevate the dish or give their restaurant a halo of fanciness. Does that seem LAZY or FORMULAIC to you? It does to me.
So let’s run down the list of caviar dishes (which is by no means comprehensive. I’ve certainly not had them all).
I already mentioned the delicate saltiness of caviar served on an airy blini with some funkalicious crème fraiche. There’s a reason this preparation has become a classic
At breakfast once, I had loosely scrambled eggs nestled atop thinly sliced smoked salmon and crowned with a scoop of caviar. Yum.
I’m not a fan of soft-boiled eggs in the shell, but with a bit of caviar on top? HuMMM…
What I AM a fan of – though not often – is caviar on pasta.
Caviar as an accompaniment to fresh oysters? I guess so.
The list goes on:
How about a FLIGHT OF 4 CAVIARS with blinis? And for a table: a TOWER OF CAVIAR TREATS.
Each can be paired with a VODKA MARTINI WITH CAVIAR resting on a slice of cucumber.
I’ve also seen caviar sliders on Parker House Rolls, baked potatoes topped with crème fraiche and caviar, and miniature cone appetizers of caviar (think Thomas Keller).
Would caviar be good on a FRIED CHICKEN LEG WITH CRÈME FRAICHE? I love fried chicken. I’ll have to try it sometime. Same with CAVIAR TACOS. Never had ‘em. I CAN tells you that caviar sprinkled on a smoked salmon pizza is delicious.
What doesn’t sound good is a “mile-high,” stacked-with-everything HAMBURGER LAYERED WITH CAVIAR. To me, that’s an example of culinary laziness – just dumping it on top to make it sound fancy and expensive.
At the end of the day, some of these iterations sound good. Some…not so hot.
I tend to lean toward dishes that treat caviar as a “pure play” – using a relatively small amount in a preparation that doesn’t have too many other ingredients to overshadow it. Restraint is the watchword here…although Oscar Wilde once said, “Everything in moderation, including moderation.”
Which brings me to…THE CAVIAR BUMP: a decadent, rather sexy and slightly naughty ritual of LICKING or SUCKING a DOLLOP of CAVIAR off the back of one’s hand – or, better yet, off your partner’s hand, with one swipe of the tongue.
And I don’t know if Marilyn Monroe, the most famous sex symbol of the 20th century, was talking about caviar bumps or not when she said, “Fame is like caviar, you know. It’s good to have caviar, but not when you have it at every meal.”
W.T.F.
PHIL